Can't wait to see your reveal, you always do amazing work. Funny story I had been pouring over Google images and Pinterest forever and finally thought, "I should just search on Sarah's page and see what her fireplace looks like. I always love her house.
I hope Lowes is a sponsor because we're heading there today to buy this tile, so I can be a copycat. If you have a specific question I will do my best to answer you back here!
You can find our paint colors and links to items at the "Our Home" tab at the top of my site. Step-by-step tutorial on how to install stacked stone veneer fireplace. We took an empty wall and created a gorgeous focal point by creating a DIY stacked stone fireplace with a wood mantel and electric fireplace!
This rustic faux stone is a great way to update a dated fireplace, and can be used with both gas fireplaces and the electric option like we have. We had an alcove that was the perfect spot to create a fireplace where there was none.
We had a new mantel and hearth built in our basement living room first:. Those tiles were just leaned up against there so I started with that bottom part -- because it was the easiest. I'm sharing this DIY natural stone tile fireplace how-to with you today!
This is the Desert Quartz Ledgestone tile we used, from Lowe's:. This post may contain affiliate links for your convenience. See my policies and disclosure page for more information. Unfortunately they don't seem to carry this exact one anymore, at least under this name. This ledge stone tile is very similar, just with more gray variations.
This natural stone tile has the same texture and a more creamy look like we used. I've had to visit three different locations to find enough to use because some batches are more pinky shades than others.
I prefer the more natural and cream tones so I've had to mix and match boxes. I choose to take the stacked tile up the whole wall, but this stone would look fantastic just around the fireplace surround as well. This is the tile adhesive I used from Home Depot:. This stuff is awesome and SO much easier than using a mortar mix. You pay a little more but will save in time and mess. This adhesive is ready to go and you don't have to worry about getting the mixture just right.
You'll need a trowel -- but make sure you get one with "teeth" that are the right size for your tile. After installing a few tiles and realizing not all of them are shaped exactly the same most are , I started laying them out on the floor to make sure they all fit together OK:. Some tiles are shorter on one end and won't work, and I had to take a couple tiles down because of that, so this part is important. Tiling itself is actually quite an easy process, especially with this tile.
It just takes TIME. Start by spreading your adhesive on the wall:. See illustrations below. One popular layout method is to begin from the inside corner of your counter and work across left to right.
This method allows you to use two points of reference, your vertical wall and horizontal counter top. This will prevent any problems as you build your backsplash.
Lay a 4-foot level on top of your counter top or backsplash return lip. If the counter top is level and straight, begin tile installation as described below. If your counter top is not level and straight, please see our FAQs to learn how to start the first row. Be sure the substrate is clean and dry. Remove the adhesive liner from the back of the matted tile.
As you begin to place the first tile, angle the top of the tile or one side away from the wall so the tile does not stick before you are ready. See images below. Do not apply pressure to the tile until you are sure of your placement. If alignment is true, apply pressure to the whole tile. The aggressive design of the adhesive does not allow for repositioning after the tile has been pressed in place.
If the tile is affixed but not aligned properly, see the Removing Tiles section, below. If cutting tiles is necessary, use one of our recommended tools and methods listed above. A large tin snip is the recommended cutting tool. Alternative cutting methods include a table saw or chop saw for any necessary straight cuts.
Use a combination of a snip and chisel for cutting notches out for various cutouts needed, such as an electrical outlet. Leave on the adhesive liner for measuring, drawing lines and cutting tiles. Measure and layout on a tile where the cut must be made and cut the tile. Take the cut tile adhesive liner still on tile to the work space and place it in its intended location, ensuring it fits properly.
Cut and install all remaining tiles using the same steps described above. When tiles are installed to your satisfaction, press each again firmly with your hand. This will ensure that the adhesive bonds to the substrate. If a tile needs to be removed, apply heat with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
Use a putty knife on the back side and slowly apply outward pressure to release the tile from the wall. The adhesive is engineered to not be removed so caution should be taken to not damage the wall. Any removed tiles may be unusable. ACP is not responsible or liable if you damage your walls. If the adhesive is destroyed but the tile face is fine, you can try using Manus-Bond AM HV adhesive to reapply the tile.
As with all natural stone products, there is some inherent risk of staining. Inside corners are ideally formed by cutting the stone with a standard inside corner miter cut.
Inside miter cuts, where the stone folds into itself, are easy cuts to perform on site with a tilting wet saw. Alternatively, two panels can be butt joined together at the inside corner, and any gaps filled in with pigmented mortar if a tilting wet saw is not available.
An aluminum or stainless steel trim piece may be used to give an external corner definition, forming a functional and attractive finish for which the Lynia IL Tile can be butt up against.
A second option is to use strips of Lynia in matching lengths and widths and installing them parallel to, and on both sides of, the outside corner, to form a border, from which tile units can be cut and laid against. Internal Corners are best handled by cutting the Lynia IL tiles so that they butt join neatly with a small grout gap where they meet on the internal corner. Natural stone is an excellent choice of building material for any environment and climate, be it interior or exterior, adjacent or completely submerged in water, desert hot or polar cold.
Certain products should be used and procedures followed in some of these environments, as noted below: Moisture Rich Environments — It is critical that a waterproofing membrane meeting or exceeding ANSI This will ensure moisture will not reach the substrate material and potentially degrade its ability to support the veneer. Please reference Norstone's product installation guides for substrate details and alternative waterproofing techniques available for your installation.
Excess dirt and film may be removed using clean water and a stiff brush. It is important not to allow thinset to dry on face of the stone. Remove it prior to it hardening. WARNING: Do not use acid wash because it has been known to have an adverse effect on stone and can possibly cause staining, etching, and rusting.
Natural Stone may be sealed with a penetrating, water based sealer only after thoroughly curing which usually takes 4 weeks on inside work. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the application of any sealer. Sealed stone may be easier to keep clean and maintain than unsealed stone and certain sealers also repel stains. Always test a sealer on a sample of stone or an off-cut before applying to the entire application to ensure any color enhancing and sheen properties of the sealer match the desired result.
Sealing Rock Panels and XL Rock Panels is recommended for certain applications, such as moisture rich environments, and some exterior applications, depending on the level of exposure and other factors, including climate and other environmental factors. All Lynia IL Tile installations should be sealed. Contact your Norstone representative to discuss whether your project should be sealed. Disclaimer: The information provided here is intended to be general only.
It does not purport to be comprehensive. You should not act on the basis of information contained on this site without obtaining qualified professional advice from a licensed professional which can be tailored to suit your specific circumstances and needs. Professional Installation Recommended. Norstone rock panels can be installed by most home handymen with a limited knowledge of building and construction.
We strongly recommend that Norstone products be installed by professional licensed tradesmen or contractors. Step 1. Start by ensuring the substrate is suitable to receive the stone veneer. Interior wall substrates should be cementitious such as cement backer board, brick, or block. Drywall is not a suitable substrate to install stone veneer on. The substrate should be level, plumb, and free of any dirt, debris, or contaminants. Step 2. Select and mix a thinset that meets or exceeds ANSI Mix thinset according to the manufacturer's recommendation and only mix up enough that you'll use in about minutes to keep it workable.
Step 3. Chalk or draw a level line up off the floor since many floors aren't level starting point and use that as a starting point, making sure to trim or shim up the first row to level. Step 4.
Step 5. Set and twist each panel onto the wall to ensure a good bond with the thinset. Work one course at a time making sure to stagger where vertical seams fall from one course to the next, and check your level every few panels to ensure the installation stays tight. Use tile spacers as necessary to keep rows level over slightly uneven substrates. Step 6. Keep a sponge and bucket of water handy to clean off any thinset that finds its way onto the face of the stone before it dries.
Step 7.
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